wildair, revisited

One of the tough parts about living in NYC is deciding whether to venture out to one of the many restaurants on our wish list or to revisit one of our loves. With Wildair, deciding to go back also requires some planning because of its popularity. Fortunately, you can now make reservations but count on a few weeks out for a weekend night.We only planned to order a bottle of wine with dinner but couldn't turn down a glass of the Agnès et René Mosse, Moussamoussettes, a reddish-colored, sparkling masterpiece of biodynamicness, which is only available in the summer, as a starter. For the meal, we were steered towards a bottle of Denavolo Dinavolina, an orange natural wine from Italy. I also couldn't resist trying a digestif of the 72 Tomatoes Liqueur - those who read my blog know I'm a sucker for savory/vegetal liquids. The server described it as tasting like a tomato vine smells. I don't know that I agree with this narrative, but it was unique and nice finish to the meal.Now for the food. I also have the dilemma when returning to an old flame whether to reorder a previous rewarding pick or embrace a new selection. We decided to choose both. An old standby was the potato darphin with hokkaido uni and jalapeno. When you get a bit of each ingredient on your fork, it becomes a perfect bite. New additions to our repertoire included the softshell crab with Meyer lemon and spring onion, lightly breaded with no greasiness accompanied by lemony, scalliony, and curried tartar sauce, and a sophisticated plate of chopped mussels with endive and smoked egg yolk.If you are reading this, stop and go to the Wildair website to make a reservation for the next mutually available time. You won't be disappointed.