OK, I’ll admit it – I got a little snippy with the hostess when we arrived less than 20 minutes after the restaurant opened (stupid bus was not on schedule), and she said it would be a 45 minute wait. She probably loved it when I told her how we came another time right at opening, and they were closed. Fortunately, she was very gracious, as everyone at Wildair is, beginning a lovely Saturday evening.

About the wait – there are just so many places to try that we usually avoid standing in line for the newest, hippest spot. We don’t mind eating early, so we arrive when these types of restaurants open.

We haven’t had a single bad dish here. Some of the standouts – crispy grain salad, beef tartare, potato darphin. Each small plate has a delicate balance of creaminess, texture, and bite.

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